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Renegade Stanton Stools

A pair of Stanton Stools is designed and built from low-cost construction lumber using normal woodshop power tools (band saw, wood lathe and drill press). I was inspired to build these stools from an American Woodshop episode here featuring Chad Stanton making his Stanton Stools using hand tools only. Mr. Stanton provides some useful design guidelines but leaves it up to the woodworker to create their own work of art.

Motivation

Like many woodworkers I aspire to build wooden chairs because I regard chair-building  as a high form of the woodworking art. This project is an ideal way to build necessary skills for building chairs (especially Windsor chairs) and yields some useful furniture that I will donate to my nieces’ families.

For about $12 I purchased 1 piece of 2″ x 12″ x 10 ft. of Douglas Fir dimensioned construction lumber to build 2 stools. I’m a sucker for  woodworking projects that use minimum materials but yield maximum utility from simple design and construction.

Design

The stools were crafted to have a rustic, textured look. Like they were carved with an axe and retrieved from an old  barn. The taller stool is 23″ and the shorter stool 17″ in height (typical chair seat height). The splay of the legs (vertical leg angle) was 9 degrees.

Construction

As mentioned in Stanton’s video, it is wise to label individual components and orient the leg end grain to be parallel to the seat grain. Hopefully this alignment allows the pieces to expand and contract together to minimize stress during seasonal humidity changes.

Stool Parts
Stool component pieces before glue-up, labelled with blue painter’s  tape
Angle Jig
Angle Jig
9 degree Angle Jig for boring seat holes and leg mortises

Normally chair-making requires a lot of cutting patterns and jigs to achieve the subtle angles. Here one jig provides an angle to bore the seat and legs. Typical angles are 8, 9, 10 degrees. For an angle of 9.04 degrees Side a=1 3/4″, Side b=11″, as shown below

Angle jig
9 degree angle jig for seat holes and leg mortises
Tenon Measuring Tool

Being a novice at the lathe I had trouble sizing lathe tenons to fit a mortise snugly. This was attributed to my poor measurement technique using (flimsy) calipers. So I created the tool below by boring 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, 1 and 1 1/4″ holes along a common center line and cutting precisely through the centers. This tool proved easy to use and very accurate. If a tenon fit well here, it made for a strong glue joint. A great tool for future chair-making.

Tenon Tool
Tenon measuring tool made from 1″ thick oak

I recommend using Titebond Extend wood glue for its longer open time. The stools are finished with Shellac, Cherry Stain and several coats of Polyurethane

Conclusion

This was a fun and worthwhile woodworking project. I progressed my woodworking skills and the stools I made are strong and light and should last a lifetime with my nieces’ families. For my next round of Stanton Stools I would probably forego the seat’s through-hole tenons in favor of a recessed mortise yielding a smoother seat.

Finished Stools
Finished Stools tall (23″) and short (17″)

Wood Fence Repair

After 23+ years the wood fence in the side yard collapsed.  The posts had rotted at ground level and the fence fell over against the house.

Collapsed Fence
Collapsed Fence

2 old fence posts were dug out of the ground and replaced using 4x4x8ft pressure treated wood posts and an 80lb. bag of Quikrete.

Concreted Posts
Concreted Posts

Pressure treated 2×4 rail attached using galvanized metal hanger. Cedar stile joined with 1.25″ deck screws. The material cost was about $60 per 8 foot section.

Construction Detail
Construction Detail

The repaired fence standing tall and proud.

repaired fence
Repaired Fence

Repaired fence viewed from neighbor’s yard

neighbor's fence
Neighbor’s Fence

A Wood Sign

I made this wood sign for my sister to display on her farm.

The letters are cut into a 1×8″ red oak dimensioned lumber board using a hand-held plunge router and Rockler’s 3.5″ State Park font  templates. This style includes Kerning, an attractive way to space certain letter combinations. The letters are painted black and the board is finished with shellac and several coats of polyurethane.

wood sign
Sign at the Farm

 

 

 

 

 

 

wood sign
Sign Close-up

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Rockler State Park Font Kit

Drop Leaf Gate Leg Folding Oak Table

I made this gate leg drop leaf table based on a design from MLCS Industries. plans here.

A critical feature is the Rule Joint that allows the leafs to fold down but support weight when the leaf is up.  The Rule Joint also requires a special metal hinge and mortising on the table under side.  The Rule Joint was carved into the table top using a hand-held router and 2 simple router bits. The table apron is formed with mortise and tenon joints plus metal clasps (not in the plans). All wood is white oak, stained with Minwax oak and protected with multiple coats of polyurethane. I spent a lot of time flattening the top surface with a card scraper.

side view
side view: gate leg and leaf fold together precisely
leafs folded
leafs folded

 

half open
half open

 

fully open
fully open: lots of table space

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Strong and tough, this table is one of my most successful woodworking projects and is in daily use at my niece’s home. The MLCS plans make an attractive gate leg drop leaf table.

Woodworking Tiny Grandfather Clock

I made a number of tiny woodworking grandfather clocks like this below. The clock movement is an analog atomic movement meaning it will receive Colorado’s  WWV radio signal and keep perfect time. The main woods are quarter sawn oak and walnut.  The wood is finished with shellac, MinWax Oak Stain and polyurethane.

wood clock
Tiny Grandfather Clock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

front view
Tiny Grandfather Clock

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Favorite woodworking project website Lumberjocks